Showing posts with label silk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label silk. Show all posts

Sunday, October 28, 2018

Immense Asymmetric Bow of Pewter-Colored Silk Taffeta

Jean-Marc Nattier
Portrait of Marie-Françoise de La Cropte de St Abre, Marquise d'Argence
1744
oil on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Jean-Marc Nattier
Portrait of Suzanne-Marguerite Fyot de la Marche, Marquise d'Argenson
1750
oil on canvas
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

François-Hubert Drouais
Portrait of Marie Rinteau, called Mademoiselle Verrières
1761
oil on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

"Despite shifting social mores and behavior, the aristocratic attitude continued to represent an envied model, contested only later by Enlightenment ideals.  What is most striking is the development of a cult of femininity, beauty, and female privilege, which became more explicit than ever, covering a full range of attitudes from the lowest to the highest echelons of society, from coarseness to adoration.  The century owed its originality to this general attention to subtle feelings, amorous casuistry (the focus of Marivaux's plays) and the flirtatious thrill that inhabits painting and sculpture even more intensely than literature.  Watteau's album of French fashions provided models for the billowy, waistless dresses called ballandes.  By 1715 hoop skirts were seen on the fashionable promenade of the Tuileries, with petticoats draped over wicker frames to create a broad new silhouette.  The inevitable counterpart was the development of the upper body, notably with décolleté bodices and complex coiffures.  The French art of dress and "cosmetics" played a driving role, fueled by portraiture and engravings.  The image of woman as vaguely smiling idol became so dominant that it imposed its modern accouterments on mythology and history."

– André Chastel, from French Art: The Ancien Régime, 1620-1775, translated by Deke Dusinberre (Flammarion, 1996)

Pierre Subleyras
Portrait of Giovanna Bagnara
ca. 1739
oil on canvas
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

Nicolas de Largillière
Portrait of François-Armand de Gontaut, Duc de Biron
1714
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Jean-Baptiste Greuze
Presumed portrait of the Chevalier de Damery
ca. 1765
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Marguerite Gérard
Portrait of a man in his study
ca. 1785
oil on panel
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun
Portrait of a young woman
ca. 1797
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

"You agree, then, that there is not, nor could there be, either an entire subsisting animal nor a portion of a subsisting animal which, strictly speaking, you could take as a primary model.  You agree that this model is purely ideal, and that it is not directly imprinted on any of the individual images in nature, copies of which have remained in your imagination, and that you can summon up at will, hold before your eyes and slavishly copy, to the extent that you wish to avoid portraiture.  You agree that, when you make something beautiful, you do not make it of something that exists or even of something that could exist.  You agree that the difference between the portraitist and yourself, a man of genius, is essentially that the portraitist faithfully renders nature as it is, and by inclination remains on the third order of reality, while you seek out the truth, the primary model, and ceaselessly attempt to raise yourself to the second order."

– Denis Diderot, from the Salon of 1767, translated by John Goodman (Yale University Press, 1995)

attributed to Joseph Boze
Portrait of two boys, said to be the Autichamp brothers
ca. 1785
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

François Boucher
Young woman with flowers in her hair
before 1770
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Jean-Baptiste Greuze
The white hat
ca. 1780
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Maurice Quentin de La Tour
Portrait of Jean-Charles Garnier d'Isle
ca. 1750
pastel and gouache on blue paper, mounted on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Maurice Quentin de La Tour
Portrait of a woman in a rose-colored gown
ca. 1755
pastel
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

"The category of "painter in pastels" was recognized by the Academy when Maurice Quentin de La Tour, after becoming an associate in 1737, was made a full member in 1746.  The arrival in Paris of the Venetian propagandist for pastel, Rosalba Carriera, converted La Tour to the medium.  The powdery, delicate effect of pastels enchanted aristocratic clients, yielding a fashionable art which repeated the same pose, same smile, same absence of background."

– André Chastel, from French Art: The Ancien Régime, 1620-1775, translated by Deke Dusinberre (Flammarion, 1996)

Marie-Denise Villers
Miniature portrait of an unknown woman
ca. 1790
pigment on ivory
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Antoine Vestier
Miniature portrait of Mlle Marie-Nicole Vestier,
the artist's daughter at her easel
1785
watercolor on ivory
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

Anonymous French painter
Miniature portrait of an unknown woman
ca. 1790
pigment on ivory, mounted on gold box lid
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Jacques-Joseph de Gault
Miniature portrait of Marie-Thérèse-Charlotte,
daughter of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette
1795
pigment on ivory
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Sunday, May 20, 2018

The Francis Bacon Collection (2009) by Dries Van Noten


"He once designed a collection based on the work of the painter Francis Bacon that mixed together colors such as mustard, pale lilac and 'shrimp'.  It did not sell as he'd hoped.  But he said it's still one of his favorite collections."

"Van Noten had taken the shades of Francis Bacon's paintings – shrimp pink, beige, ocher, orange and mauve – and deployed them in a way that gave life to pieces that might have seemed boring in other hands."

"Every one of Van Noten's shows forces these reconsiderations, but my favorite is probably his fall 2009 ready-to-wear women's collection . . . each hue dyed to just the point where it almost became some other color altogether: a claret-y red-purple sweater above a lichen-y blue-green skirt; a peachy pink-orange skirt worn beneath a grassy gold-green shirt."




"When I started to work on the collection, I went to the exhibition of Francis Bacon in London, and when I came out of that exhibition I was really completely in shock, and for me I didn't know any more if I've seen now the most beautiful thing and the most ugly thing, in which I could see my life.  I was really kind of upset about the beauty and ugliness at the same time, and I wanted to translate this feeling which I felt  also in a collection."

"I think I never went so far in using colors.  They really looked like paintings of Bacon, which we translated in fabric, and a lot of work went into finding the right shine of fabric, like the dullness of certain fabrics, to have the right feeling in these things.  Some people of the press absolutely loved it, other people of the press absolutely hated it.  Suzy Menkes invented even a new word for a color, so she calls one of the colors which we used 'rotten shrimp' – so it was really to show that she didn't like so much what she saw on the catwalk.  And also the customers didn't react very well, so it was a collection that was one of the most tough ones to sell in stores."
























Sunday, February 25, 2018

Silk Artifacts from the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Hat with Morning Glories and Sweet Peas by Elsa Schiaparelli
ca. 1948-52
silk satin
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Dolman Coat by Madame Drugeon, Paris
ca. 1880-85
quilted silk trimmed with pared ostrich feather
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Drapery Tie-back with Tassels
by Le Mirepère et Fils

ca. 1850-60
braided silk cord
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Needlework Purse on Steel Frame
ca. 1825
silk
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Veil
ca. 1820
silk gauze
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Silk

I keep the books in a silk factory
for my employer, Herr Bernhard. The work
is not hard, but I suffer, feeling I was made
for finer things. All day
I hunch like a spider over my ledger.
I dip my pen into the well
– this pen that could be used to spar or sing –
drawing out of the black pool a line, thin
as a thread, fine as baby's hair.
This columned page for warp
and woof, it is my own death
I weave here, winding myself
in a shroud of silk. Soon I shall sleep
the sleep of the worm, without thought
or dream. Sometimes I wonder
how so many tiny deaths
are daily woven into cloth so thin,
so light, it seems almost a substance
of the spirit. Then I dip my pen
for penance in the well and plod
again across the rows of numbers
until every shred and pennysworth's
accounted for.

– Jean Nordhaus (1993)

Wedding Dress worn by Helena Slicher
1759
embroidered silk
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

French Shoes
ca. 1725-50
silk damask
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Hangings for Dolls' House Bed
ca. 1750
silk
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Bed Hangings
ca. 1700
silk velvet, silk taffeta
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Tapestry of Sea Battle by Josse de Vos
ca. 1715-34
silk and wool
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Tapestry fragment from The Seasons (May, June) by Everaert Leyniers
ca. 1650-80
silk and wool
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Purse with Iris Motif
ca. 1675-1700
silk embroidery
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

The Painter on Silk

There was a man
Who made his living
By painting roses
Upon silk.

He sat in an upper chamber
And painted,
And the noises of the street
Meant nothing to him.

When he heard bugles, and fifes, and drums,
He thought of red, and yellow, and white roses
Bursting in the sunshine,
And smiled as he worked.

He thought only of roses,
And silk.

When he could get no more silk,
He stopped painting
And only thought
Of roses.

The day the conquerors
Entered the city
The old man
Lay dying.
He heard the bugles and drums
And wished he could paint the roses
Bursting into sound.

– Amy Lowell (1915)

Heraldic Tunic attributed to Johan Pietersz Smout
for the funeral of Prince Frederick Hendrick of Orange-Nassau

1647
embroidered silk
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Head of Bearded Old Man by Jan Lievens
ca. 1630-32
etching printed on silk
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Poems from the archives of Poetry (Chicago)