Thursday, October 24, 2024

Fifties Looks

Pancaldi of Bologna
Evening Shoes
ca. 1956
silk satin and leather
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Hermès
Gloves
ca. 1950
suede with broderie anglaise in silk
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Gabrielle Chanel
Hat
c1955
wool-felt-
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Esther Bubley
Untitled
1952
gelatin silver print
San Diego Museum of Art

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Cocktail Dress
ca. 1954
silk
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Yves Saint Laurent for Dior
Cocktail Dress
1959
silk taffeta
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Anonymous Milliner (USA)
Hat
ca. 1950
wool felt, silk veiling, feathers
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Jean Dessès
Evening Gown
ca. 1958
silk base trimmed with dyed-to-match machine-lace
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Charles James
Ballgown
1951
silk velvet, silk satin, silk faille
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

Norman Hartnell
Court Ensemble
1950
silk tulle with gold and silver lamé
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Louis Faurer
New York City
1951
gelatin silver print
Art Institute of Chicago

Pauline Trigère
Cocktail Dress and Bolero
ca. 1959
wool lined with silk
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Mainbocher
Ballgown
1955
silk faille
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

James Galanos
Ballgown
1956
metallic lace with silk satin bows
Philadelphia Museum of Art

André-Charles Biéler
Sous Bois
1951
oil on canvas
Ottawa Art Gallery, Ontario

Helen Rose
Wedding Gown for Grace Kelly
(fabricated at Metro Goldwyn Meyer in Hollywood)
1956
silk lace, silk faille, silk tulle, seed pearls
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Easy Knowledge

Between attention and attention, 
The first and last decision,
Is mortal distraction
Of earth and air,
Further and nearer,
The vague wants 
Of days and nights,
And personal error;
And the fatigued face,
Taking the strain
Of the horizontal force
And the vertical thrust,
Makes random answer
To the crucial test;
The uncertain flesh,
Scraping back chair
For the wrong train,
Falling in slush
Before a friend's friends
Or shaking hands
With a snub-nosed winner.

The opening window, closing door,
Open, close, but not
To finish or restore;
These wishes get
No further than
The edges of the town,
And leaning asking from the car
Cannot tell us where we are;
While the divided face
Has no grace,
No discretion,
No occupation
But registering
Acreage, mileage,
The easy knowledge
Of the virtuous thing.

– W.H. Auden (1930)