Wednesday, May 6, 2026

Costume Work

Marcus Geeraerts the Younger
Captain Thomas Lee garbed as Irish Foot-Soldier
1594
oil on canvas
Tate Britain


Pieter de Jode after Sebastian Vrancx
Fashionable Woman of Milan
ca. 1600
engraving
Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Vienna

Giacomo Franco
Study of the Apparel of a Doge
ca. 1610
drawing (print study)
British Museum

Joseph Werner the Younger
Mademoiselle de La Vallière in Costume
ca. 1663
gouache on vellum (cabinet miniature)
Norton Simon Museum, Pasadena, California

Georg Melchior Kraus
Gentleman's Costume
1786
hand-colored engraving
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Natalia Goncharova
Stage Costume for Peasant Woman
1914
gouache on paper
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Natalia Goncharova (designer)
Stage Costume for Ballets Russes Seahorse
ca. 1916
silk and cotton
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Michel Larionov
Stage Costume for Mechanical Peacock
1919
pochoir
Lowe Art Museum, University of Miami

Alexandre Benois
Stage Costume for a Merchant
ca. 1920
watercolor and ink on paper
National Gallery of Australia. Canberra

Jeanne Paquin
Stage Costume for Cecily Byrne
Not in Our Stars
Wyndham's Theatre, London

1924
silk brocade
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Alfred Cheney Johnston
Marjorie Merriweather Post
in Court Presentation Costume

1929
gelatin silver print
National Portrait Gallery, Washington DC

Eudora Welty
Pageant of Birds
(Farish Street Baptist Church, Jackson, Mississippi)
ca. 1930-40
gelatin silver print
North Carolina Museum of Art, Raleigh

Charles Ricketts
Costume Study for Cardinal
ca. 1935
graphite and watercolor on paper
Beaverbrook Art Gallery, Fredericton, New Brunswick

Robert Remsen Vickrey
Illustration for Great Ideas of Western Man Series
1964
tempera on board
(study for poster by Container Corp. of America)
Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington DC

Anonymous American Designer
Movie Costume for Diana Ross as Billie Holiday
1972
wool twill with fur trim
National Museum of African American
History and Culture, Washington DC

Leon Levinstein
New Orleans Mardi Gras
1975
gelatin silver print
Whitney Museum of American Art, New York

Oscar de la Renta
Stage Costume for Whitney Houston
1986
patterned silk with beaded cuffs
National Museum of African American
History and Culture, Washington DC

from House-Guest

The sad seamstress
who stays with us this month
is small and thin and bitter.
No one can cheer her up.
Give her a dress, a drink,
roast chicken, or fried fish – 
it's all the same to her. 

She sits and watches TV.
No, she watches zigzags. 
"Can you adjust the TV?"
"No," she says. No hope.
She watches on and on,
without hope, without air.

Her own clothes give us pause,
but she's not a poor orphan.
She has a father, a mother,
and all that, and she's earning
quite well, and we're stuffing
her with fattening foods.

We invite her to use the binoculars.
We say, "Come see the jets!"
We say, "Come see the baby!"
Or the knife grinder who cleverly
plays the National Anthem
on his wheel so shrilly.
Nothing helps.

She speaks: "I need a little
money to buy buttons."
She seem to think it's useless
to ask. Heavens, buy buttons,
if they'll do any good,
the biggest in the world –
by the dozen, by the gross!
Buy yourself an ice cream,
a comic book, a car!

Her face is closed as a nut,
closed as a careful snail
or a thousand-year-old seed.
Does she dream of marriage?
Of getting rich? Her sewing
is decidedly mediocre.

– Elizabeth Bishop (1956)