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I had read sad things about the Fontana del Tritone pictured here. It was a "masterpiece of Bernini" now marooned on a traffic island in Piazza Barberini which had been "transformed between the wars into one of the busiest traffic hubs in the city." Bernini, in all good faith, "made a careful study of where the water would fall, but since the water pressure is now lower the full effect can no longer be appreciated: the spray was meant to have reached the scallop shell, and from there the water would brim over into the lower basin."
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On an overcast day with not much traffic around, it seemed to me still very beautiful and not more unhappy in its fate than most other survivors of its time. I was not really looking for this solitary Triton balanced high on a structure of dolphins and shells, but only came across it by chance while walking toward Palazzo Barberini, now an art gallery but originally built as a residence by Urban VIII, the same Pope who had commissioned the fountain and whose arms are conspicuously carved into the base.
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Spotting the Barberini bees around Rome was the sort of children's game that reliably amused me throughout the whole of my time there.
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Most memorably, they turned up in super 3-D on a stair-post inside Castel Sant'Angelo.
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It was tempting to read this stone sphere and its burden of predatory bees as a tangible fantasy of global domination that would appeal to almost any Pope, past or present.
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The gateposts outside Palazzo Barberini displayed their own marble versions of the bees, carved on a shield between heraldic gryphons.
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More than half the building is still undergoing restoration. Around the back, its quasi-ruinous status was clear. Opinions seemed to agree that the Italian state is doing a thorough and competent job here, but at an extremely slow pace.
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The other significant Borromini contribution to the Palazzo was the design for the arched windows on the top story with half-circle borders the same width as the pilasters on the sides. These look pretty restrained for Borromini, but perhaps his uncle toned him down.
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In sober truth it has to be confessed that I put a lot more attention into the still-run-down area behind the palace than I had paid to the pristine front.
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It struck me that this must have been the way Roman buildings mostly would have appeared to the whole tribe of 19th century writers whose books have shaped my expectations.
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These Baroque carpet gardens invariably are photographed full of freshly-planted flowers under sunny skies. To find one all shaggy and forgotten, under clouds, was far more moving.