Friday, June 21, 2024

Fashions Preserved in Black and White (Photographs)

Gordon Parks
Gowns by Jacques Fath, Paris
1951
gelatin silver print
Princeton University Art Museum

Éditions Paul-Martial (Paris)
Model in Three-Piece Suit
ca. 1939
gelatin silver print
Kupferstichkabinett, Kunstmuseum, Basel

Athol Shmith
Gown of the Year
1958
gelatin silver print
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Man Ray
Barbette Dressing
1926
gelatin silver print
(commissioned by Jean Cocteau)
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Berenice Abbott
Coco Chanel
ca. 1927
gelatin silver print
Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts

Berenice Abbott
Margarett Sargent McKean
ca. 1928
gelatin silver print
Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts

George Hoyningen-Huene
Horst
1931
gelatin silver print
(swimwear modeled by future fashion photographer)
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Daniel Jocz
Candy-Wear Jewelry
1999
photocopied fashion photograph with paper collage
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Philippe Halsman
Swedish Model
ca. 1965-70
gelatin silver print
Brooklyn Museum

Yousuf Karsh
Moira Shearer
1959
gelatin silver print
Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

attributed to Ilse Bing
Fashion Model
ca. 1940
gelatin silver print
Yale University Art Gallery

Ruth Bernhard
Draped Model with Pins
1930
gelatin silver print
Princeton University Art Museum

Louise Dahl-Wolfe
Model in Schiaparelli Tunic Dress
with Brancusi Sculptures

1938
gelatin silver print
Yale University Art Gallery

Louise Dahl-Wolfe
Model in Corset
1950
gelatin silver print
Yale University Art Gallery

John Swannell
Fashion Designer Jean Muir with Model
ca. 1985
gelatin silver print
Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

Edward Steichen
Beatrice Lillie wearing Roller Skates
ca. 1926-31
gelatin silver print
Princeton University Art Museum

Through Binoculars

In their congealed light
We discover that what we had taken for a face 
Has neither eyes nor mouth,
But only the impersonality of anatomy.

Silencing movement,
They withdraw life.

Definition grows clear-cut, but bodiless,
Withering by a dimension.

To see thus
Is to ignore the revenge of light on shadow,
To confound both in a brittle and false union.

This fictive extension into madness
Has a kind of bracing effect:
That normality is, after all, desirable
One can no longer doubt having experienced its opposite. 

Binoculars are the last phase in a romanticism:
The starkly mad vision, not mortal,
But dangling one in a vicarious, momentary idiocy.

To dispense with them
Is to make audible the steady roar of evening,
Withdrawing in slow ripples of orange,
Like the retreat of water from sea-caves.

– Charles Tomlinson (1955)