Sunday, October 28, 2018

Immense Asymmetric Bow of Pewter-Colored Silk Taffeta

Jean-Marc Nattier
Portrait of Marie-Françoise de La Cropte de St Abre, Marquise d'Argence
1744
oil on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Jean-Marc Nattier
Portrait of Suzanne-Marguerite Fyot de la Marche, Marquise d'Argenson
1750
oil on canvas
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

François-Hubert Drouais
Portrait of Marie Rinteau, called Mademoiselle Verrières
1761
oil on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

"Despite shifting social mores and behavior, the aristocratic attitude continued to represent an envied model, contested only later by Enlightenment ideals.  What is most striking is the development of a cult of femininity, beauty, and female privilege, which became more explicit than ever, covering a full range of attitudes from the lowest to the highest echelons of society, from coarseness to adoration.  The century owed its originality to this general attention to subtle feelings, amorous casuistry (the focus of Marivaux's plays) and the flirtatious thrill that inhabits painting and sculpture even more intensely than literature.  Watteau's album of French fashions provided models for the billowy, waistless dresses called ballandes.  By 1715 hoop skirts were seen on the fashionable promenade of the Tuileries, with petticoats draped over wicker frames to create a broad new silhouette.  The inevitable counterpart was the development of the upper body, notably with décolleté bodices and complex coiffures.  The French art of dress and "cosmetics" played a driving role, fueled by portraiture and engravings.  The image of woman as vaguely smiling idol became so dominant that it imposed its modern accouterments on mythology and history."

– André Chastel, from French Art: The Ancien Régime, 1620-1775, translated by Deke Dusinberre (Flammarion, 1996)

Pierre Subleyras
Portrait of Giovanna Bagnara
ca. 1739
oil on canvas
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

Nicolas de Largillière
Portrait of François-Armand de Gontaut, Duc de Biron
1714
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Jean-Baptiste Greuze
Presumed portrait of the Chevalier de Damery
ca. 1765
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Marguerite Gérard
Portrait of a man in his study
ca. 1785
oil on panel
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun
Portrait of a young woman
ca. 1797
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

"You agree, then, that there is not, nor could there be, either an entire subsisting animal nor a portion of a subsisting animal which, strictly speaking, you could take as a primary model.  You agree that this model is purely ideal, and that it is not directly imprinted on any of the individual images in nature, copies of which have remained in your imagination, and that you can summon up at will, hold before your eyes and slavishly copy, to the extent that you wish to avoid portraiture.  You agree that, when you make something beautiful, you do not make it of something that exists or even of something that could exist.  You agree that the difference between the portraitist and yourself, a man of genius, is essentially that the portraitist faithfully renders nature as it is, and by inclination remains on the third order of reality, while you seek out the truth, the primary model, and ceaselessly attempt to raise yourself to the second order."

– Denis Diderot, from the Salon of 1767, translated by John Goodman (Yale University Press, 1995)

attributed to Joseph Boze
Portrait of two boys, said to be the Autichamp brothers
ca. 1785
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

François Boucher
Young woman with flowers in her hair
before 1770
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Jean-Baptiste Greuze
The white hat
ca. 1780
oil on canvas
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Maurice Quentin de La Tour
Portrait of Jean-Charles Garnier d'Isle
ca. 1750
pastel and gouache on blue paper, mounted on canvas
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Maurice Quentin de La Tour
Portrait of a woman in a rose-colored gown
ca. 1755
pastel
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

"The category of "painter in pastels" was recognized by the Academy when Maurice Quentin de La Tour, after becoming an associate in 1737, was made a full member in 1746.  The arrival in Paris of the Venetian propagandist for pastel, Rosalba Carriera, converted La Tour to the medium.  The powdery, delicate effect of pastels enchanted aristocratic clients, yielding a fashionable art which repeated the same pose, same smile, same absence of background."

– André Chastel, from French Art: The Ancien Régime, 1620-1775, translated by Deke Dusinberre (Flammarion, 1996)

Marie-Denise Villers
Miniature portrait of an unknown woman
ca. 1790
pigment on ivory
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Antoine Vestier
Miniature portrait of Mlle Marie-Nicole Vestier,
the artist's daughter at her easel
1785
watercolor on ivory
Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

Anonymous French painter
Miniature portrait of an unknown woman
ca. 1790
pigment on ivory, mounted on gold box lid
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Jacques-Joseph de Gault
Miniature portrait of Marie-Thérèse-Charlotte,
daughter of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette
1795
pigment on ivory
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York