Saturday, September 6, 2025

Contrived in France

House of Worth
Evening Gown
ca. 1882
silk satin and silk chiffon
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum


House of Worth
Evening Cloak
1889
embroidered silk with dyed and beaded lace
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

House of Worth
Evening Gown
ca. 1893
silk satin, silk chiffon and silk velvet
National Museum of American History, Washington DC

Maison Goupy
Day Dress
1919
printed cotton and silk velvet
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Callot Soeurs
Evening Gown
1922
beaded and embroidered silk
National Museum of American History
Washington DC

Callot Soeurs
Evening Gown
ca. 1923-26
printed and beaded silk velvet and lace
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Christian Dior
Wedding Gown
1956
silk taffeta, silk tulle and lace
National Museum of American History, Washington DC

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Cocktail Coat
1956
silk gros-de-Naples
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Ensemble (Sweater and Skirt)
1957
wool knit
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Coat
1960
wool
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Evening Gown
1960
embroidered silk gros-de-Naples
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Ensemble (Blouse and Skirt)
1961
silk crepe
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Day Dress
1968
wool crepe
Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, Getaria, Spain

Hubert de Givenchy
Evening Gown
1982
cotton knit with nylon tulle and plastic sequins
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Emanuel Ungaro
Evening Ensemble
1989
jacket: silk-cotton twill and rayon velvet
skirt: embroidered silk satin
Philadelphia Museum of Art

John Galliano for Dior
Suit
1998
wool and silk, with wool faux-fur
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Giambattista Valli
Two-Piece Dress
2014
silk taffeta and silk tulle
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

    They which forewent us did leave a room for us, and should we grieve to do the same to those which should come after us?  Who, being admitted to see the exquisite rarities of some antiquary's cabinet, is grieved, all viewed, to have the curtain drawn, and give place to new pilgrims?  And when the Lord of this universe hath showed us the various wonders of his amazing frame, should we take it to heart when he thinketh time to dislodge?  This is his unalterable and unevitable decree: as we had no part of our will in our entrance into this life, we should not presume of any on our leaving it, but soberly learn to will that which he wills, whose very willing giveth being to all that it wills; and adoring the Orderer, not repine at the order and laws, which all-where and all-ways are so perfectly established that who would essay to alter and amend any of them, he should either make them worse or desire things beyond the level of possibility.  All that is necessary and convenient for us they have bestowed upon us and freely granted; and what they have not bestowed nor granted us, neither is it necessary nor convenient that we should have it. 

– William Drummond of Hawthornden, from A Cypress Grove (London: Hawthornden Press, 1919, reprinting the original edition of 1623)