Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Raised Waistline

This past spring, Nicolas Ghesquière presented his first Paris runway show since leaving the house of Balenciaga in 2012. He has taken up a new mission, designing for Louis Vuitton. His first show unified itself around a single design element  the waistline, elevated an inch or two above the natural waist. Along the line of this raised waist, the points of two elongated triangles converged. Broad-shouldered bodice-triangles mirrored A-line skirt-triangles. An astute German commentator referred to this collection as "1970s feminist architecture."

Freja Beha Erichsen opened the show

This ritual took place in a purpose-built pavilion on the grounds of the Louvre. Guests assembled under artificial light, with the walls apparently solid metal. When the show started the walls became blinds that opened. Daylight, seldom seen at fashion shows, caused excitement. (The infinitely famous editor of Vogue is seated near the right edge of photo immediately above, in a green-patterned garment.)

 Old friends also attended, of course 

Chiara Mastroianni and Catherine Deneuve

Hidetoshi Nakata and N.G.

Isabelle Huppert and N.G.