Monday, November 16, 2020

Costume Studies - Passages from Italian Paintings

Giuliano Bugiardini
Portrait of a Florentine Lady (detail)
ca. 1515-25
oil on canvas
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon

Francesco Salviati
The Annunciation (detail)
ca. 1533
oil on panel
Chiesa di San Francesco a Ripa Grande, Rome

Sandro Botticelli
Personification of Fortitude (detail)
1470
tempera on panel
Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

Filippino Lippi
St Sebastian with St John the Baptist and St Francis (detail)
1502
tempera on panel
Palazzo Bianco, Genoa

Parmigianino
Virgin and Child with Saints (detail)
1529
oil on panel
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Guido Reni
Massacre of the Innocents (detail)
1611
oil on canvas
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Filippo Lippi
Coronation of the Virgin (detail)
1439-47
tempera on panel
Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

Andrea del Sarto
Pietà with Saints (detail)
ca. 1523-24
oil on panel
Palazzo Pitti, Florence

Ludovico Carracci
The Transfiguration (detail)
1595
oil on canvas
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Lorenzo Sabatini
Assumption of the Virgin (detail)
ca. 1569-70
oil on panel
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Santi di Tito
The Resurrection (detail)
ca. 1574
oil on panel
Basilica di Santa Croce, Florence

Giorgio Vasari
Christ in the House of Martha and Mary (detail)
1540
oil on panel
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

"Clothing was continually in motion from around 1300 to 1600.  It moved from body to body in the form of gifts and payments. It separated into discrete parts that circulated and recirculated after the death of a person; clothing was altered and realtered for individual family members and for individuals in larger networks that extended beyond the family. Items of clothing helped to pay debts and assisted individuals who lacked cash yet needed to acquire essential resources.  . . .  In fact, since clothing had evolved into an elaborate assemblage of parts that mixed, matched, and constituted a whole, it was easier to take garments apart and sell them in portions if the occasion arose. Sleeves, bodice, doublet, partlet, shirt, cape, undergown, head covering, and other clothing parts acted as material and symbolic currency whose circulation could make and unmake the clothed subject. These detachable parts could move from body to body; they served as gifts, donations and bequests; and they could be rented, if the necessity arose, from secondhand clothing dealers."

– Margaret F. Rosenthal, Cultures of Clothing in Later Medieval and Early Modern Europe, published in Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, Fall, 2009

Girolamo dai Libri
Virgin and Child Enthroned
with St Joseph and the Archangel Raphael (detail)
(lettering across torso rendered in pearls)
1530
oil on panel
Museo di Castelvecchio, Verona

Innocenzo da Imola
Virgin and Child in Glory
with St Peter, St Michael Archangel and St Benedict (detail)
ca. 1517-22
oil on panel
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Prospero Fontana
Adoration of the Magi (detail)
(cameos as ornamental clasps)
ca. 1569
oil on panel
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

Paolo Veronese
Feast in the House of Levi (detail)
1573
oil on canvas
Gallerie dell' Accademia, Venice