Monday morning is cold and dim. The city seems deserted. San Franciscans tend to leave town for elsewhere over major holidays, since so many of them are either young or from elsewhere in the first place (or both). The tourists do come. Last Christmas they didn't come but this year they are back. I saw this group this morning on my way to the laundromat. It was barely crack of dawn and they were already disembarking from their bus to tour small and humble Mission Dolores and its chilly leafless graveyard.