Monday, April 11, 2016

Satin as fashion in European paintings, 17th century

Gabriel Metsu
Man and woman at a virginal
ca 1665
National Gallery, London

The oldest and most common method of weaving any fabric is Plain Weave where each warp thread (the vertical ones) passes alternatively over and under each weft thread (the crosswise ones).

Plain Weave

Satin Weave proceeds differently, with each warp thread passing over at least four weft threads before passing under one. The 4/1 pattern does not proceed in rows but diagonally across the width of the fabric, which produces the desired 'satin' effect of relatively greater glossiness. 17th-century satins were nearly always woven of silk, further increasing the gloss, but the satin-weave structure is more often used in the present day with synthetics and cottons.

Satin Weave

Godfried Schalcken
A woman singing and a man with a cittern
ca. 1665-70
National Gallery, London

Gerard ter Borch
A woman playing a lute with two men singing
ca. 1667-68
National Gallery, London

Jacob Ochtervelt
A woman at a harpsichord with a man singing
ca. 1675-80
National Gallery, Lodon

Jacob Ochtervelt
Two women and a man making music
ca. 1675-80
National Gallery, London

Jan Steen
A woman playing a harpsichord with a man listening
1659
National Gallery, London

Frans van Mieris the Elder
A woman feeding a parrot
ca. 1663
National Gallery, London

Gerard ter Borch
A woman at her toilet, with attendant 
ca. 1650-51
Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jacob Ochtervelt
A woman trimming her fingernails, with attendant
ca. 1670-75
National Gallery, London

Gerard ter Borch
Curiosity (woman writing with two others standing)
ca. 1660-62
Metropolitan Museum of Art
 
attributed to Ludolf de Jongh
A woman refusing a glass of wine 
ca. 1660-65
National Gallery, London
 
Eglon Hendrik van der Neer
Portrait of a woman as Judith with the head of Holofernes
ca. 1678
National Gallery, London

Peter Lely
Portrait of a woman with a lamb
ca. 1665
National Portrait Gallery (U.K.)

Jacob Jordaens
The painter's family
1621-22
Prado