Saturday, January 14, 2017

European Jewelry by Known Designers, 19th century

Brooch
designed by A.W.N. Pugin
1848
enameled gold, garnets, turquoises, pearls, ruby
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Though God forbid that I propose to you
you're anywhere but right here  halfway through
this dark tale of the author's final fight
for the perpetually vacant belt of light
in the high ring of the sunscorched upper ether 
that young man's sport  before he falls, unfeathered
and half-blind back to middle earth to stand
alone in the assuaging shadowlands
and seek the means by which he might appraise
that lenient and sweetening compromise
between the vision and his earthly term,
the happy marriage of the rose and worm.

 from A Talking Book, published in Landing Light by Don Paterson (Graywolf Press, 2005)

Brooch
designed by Edward Burne-Jones
ca. 1890
green-stained ivory and citrine set in gold
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by Edward Burne-Jones
ca. 1890
amethyst set in gold and silver
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Pendant
designed by Carlo Giuliano
onyx cameo by Georges Bissinger

ca. 1865
enameled gold, rubies, sapphires, pearls
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Memorial-pendant for Princess Charlotte
designed by Charlotte Jones
1817
miniature portrait and locks of human hair
set in gold with rock crystal and diamonds
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Pendant
designed by Mrs. Philip Newman
ca. 1890
enameled gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, half-pearls
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by Marret frères et Jarry
ca. 1875
enameled gold, emeralds, diamonds
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by François-Désiré Froment-Meurice
 ca. 1844
enameled silver
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by Jacob Ulrik Tostrup
1867
silver filagree
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Pendant
designed by Reinhold Vasters
ca. 1860-80
enameled-gold, rubies, emeralds, pearl
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by René-Jules Lalique
ca. 1895
gold, platinum, diamonds
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Pendant
designed by Paul Ydot
ca. 1870
silver-gilt with enamels and pastes
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by Ludwig Politzer
ca. 1890
gold, silver, diamonds, painted rock-crystal
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Brooch
designed by William Burges
ca. 1864
silver-gilt, turquoises, garnet
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

I am grateful to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London for the excellent images.