Sunday, January 5, 2025

Fabricators of Reputation

Martin Margiela
Jacket
2000
wool and rayon
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Charles James
Ballgown
1949
silk taffeta and silk satin
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

 Lucile, Lady Duff-Gordon
"Happiness" Dinner Dress
1916
silk taffeta, satin, tulle and chiffon
trimmed with ribbons, flowers and lace
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Norman Hartnell
State Gown for Queen Elizabeth
(consort of George VI)
1939
silk satin, lace, gold tissue
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto

Vivienne Westwood
 Wedding Ensemble
1993
silk
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Callot Soeurs, Paris
Afternoon Dress
ca. 1900
printed silk, appliquéd with ribbon and lace
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Alexandre Benois for Ballets-Russes
Stage Costume - Cloak for Harpist
ca. 1909
cotton embroidered with metallic thread
National Gallery of Australia, Canberra

Manish Malhotra
Evening Gown
2016
pieced cottons and silks
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Emilio Schuberth
Cocktail Dress
ca. 1961
silk faille
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Kansai Yamamoto
Ensemble
(dress and jacket)
1973
wool with punch-needle embroidery
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Iris van Herpen
"Frozen Falls" Evening Gown
2019
silk organza, silk tulle, cotton, polyester
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Norman Norell
Afternoon Ensemble
1968
silk taffeta (dress) and wool twill (jacket)
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Ralph Rucci
Evening Ensemble
2005
beaded and embroidered silk (blouse)
silk satin (skirt)
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Miss Foley
Evening Gown
ca. 1890
silk satin, silk brocade, cotton net
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

Madame Judith
Opera Coat
ca. 1895
cut silk velvet and ostrich feathers
Phoenix Art Museum, Arizona

Carolina Herrera
Wedding Gown
2012
silk satin
Philadelphia Museum of Art

Parable of the Trellis

A clematis grew at the foot of a great trellis.
Despite being
modeled on a tree, the trellis
was a human invention; every year, in May,
the green wires of the struggling vine
climbed the straightforward
trellis, and after many years 
white flowers burst from the brittle wood, like
a star shower from the heart of the garden.

Enough of that ruse. We both know
how the vine grows without
the trellis, how it sneaks
along the ground; we have both seen it
flower there, the white blossoms
like headlights growing out of a snake.

This isn't what the vine wants.
Remember, to the vine, the trellis
was never an image of confinement:
this is not
diminishment or tragedy.

The vine has a dream of light:
what is life in the dirt
with its dark freedoms
compared to supported ascent?

And for a time, 
every summer we could see the vine
relive this decision, thus 
obscuring the wood, structure
beautiful in itself, like 
a harbor or willow tree.

– Louise Glück (1996)